The Toddy Tapper
The Chethukaran comes around thrice a day without fail, assures my host as I impatiently wait for him to arrive. He would come around by 9.30 am normally, she says as she looks out into the street when the clock strikes 10 in the morning.
It is a hot and humid day although there are clouds looming large on the grey sky promising some rain later in the evening that would cool down the sweltering heat.
Manian repeats the same steps of cutting, beating, applying the paste of Taali leaf inorder to get a better yield of toddy before covering over with a mud vessel into which the toddy drips over throughout the day.
Before I could decline his offer, I am offered a glass of the drink from his container.
It is a hot and humid day although there are clouds looming large on the grey sky promising some rain later in the evening that would cool down the sweltering heat.
I am sitting in an ancient and traditional house in kerala that has a backyard with variety of trees, plants and shrubs. In the center of the backyard is a well, covered with an iron mesh that looks like it has seldom been used to draw water. A cat is snoozing on the compound wall, oblivious to the world around it.
Amongst all other things in my host’s backyard are two coconut trees. One of them is slightly bent and looms over their corrugated tiled roof. The other one faces the backyard. Early on, my host and their family realized that if the coconuts mature, they could fall bang on the corrugated tiles and with a force that could potentially break open the roof and hit one of them sleeping inside the house. This would pose a serious safety hazard.
Amongst all other things in my host’s backyard are two coconut trees. One of them is slightly bent and looms over their corrugated tiled roof. The other one faces the backyard. Early on, my host and their family realized that if the coconuts mature, they could fall bang on the corrugated tiles and with a force that could potentially break open the roof and hit one of them sleeping inside the house. This would pose a serious safety hazard.
That is when they decided to lease this coconut tree over to the Toddy tapper.
The other one, gives them plenty of coconuts for the family and the extended families throughout the year.
‘His daughter delivered yesterday, a girl child’ says my host as we wait at the appointed time for the Toddy Tapper to arrive. ‘ He has become a grandfather, but that is no reason why he would not come today’, reassures my host once again.
We have run out of conversation after she has shown me around the house, the backyard and repeated attempts at asking me if I wanted coffee or tea. I was referred to this place as this was the house of an acquaintance of my original host and they had agreed to introduce me to the Toddy Tapper. I am at their place to trail a day in the life of, the Toddy Tapper.
There is a sudden flurry of activity and the Toddy tapper has already arrived unannounced at the backyard and is going about his job.
Manian has been tapping
toddy ever since he was a boy.
He learnt the art of Toddy tapping from his
father who learnt it from his father. Though the occupation itself is passed on
from one generation, since 1957 when the local state government regularized the
occupation, one requires a licence to be a Toddy tapper. In the early days, Manian
got his licence as he was listed to belong to the family of Toddy tappers.
They
come from a caste called the ‘Ezhuva’ community whose primary occupation was
Toddy tapping a few decades ago. A lot has
changed now and the men in the community have taken to other occupations.
When a mature coconut tree
blooms with tiny flowers it is picked up for Toddy harvesting. The one’s that are not, then go on to fruit
in the form of coconut. It is at this
point that the tree is licenced to the Toddy tapper.
Inorder to make it
convenient to climb the tree everyday, the Toddy tapper prepares the coconut
tree by tying coir ropes along with coconut husks at every two to three feet interval. This is the ladder that would take him up and
down the coconut tree thrice everyday. Manian climbs the same
tree thrice daily – early in the morning and later in the evening to collect the
produce and in the mid afternoons to slow down the sap from dripping.
The new unopened buds of
the palm flower are slightly opened up with a knife leaving 95% remaining on the tree inorder to
make an opening or a perforation from where the Sap could ooze out. The whole
bud is then beaten and pound.
Traditionally the femur bone of a deer would be used for the process, but with
the dwindling Deer population, a normal iron hammer with a wooden handle does
the job just as well.
The process is repeated for
each new bud . Every bud can usually ooze
out sap until it ceases to provide sap or if it gets infected. A good bud
usually produces good sap for atleast two months before it dries out.
Every new flowering bud
that would have otherwise turned into a mature coconut, begins to ooze sap
which can be collected daily.
Manian repeats the same steps of cutting, beating, applying the paste of Taali leaf inorder to get a better yield of toddy before covering over with a mud vessel into which the toddy drips over throughout the day.
About 1 to 1.5 liters of
Toddy can be collected from each tree everyday. It is in its fermented
version, that Toddy fetches its premium price . However the price is regulated
by the government. It is sold to
contractors who inturn sell it to the toddy shops that are regulated by the
government. In parts of kerala, in India, it is illegal for the Toddy tree
owners or toddy tappers to sell toddy directly.
The Toddy Tapper’s
occupation demands a very nimble and agile body. Manian currently has about 9 trees that he
has contracted for. They are spread all
over the neighbourhood . He walks down
to each of the houses in the neighbourhood,
climbs the trees and taps Toddy unfailingly everyday of the year. When he takes a break is when the new flowers
bloom and then turn into a ripe cononut.
I can see two ripe
coconuts on the otherwise barren tree. Manian tells me, this was when he fell
ill and was unable to come over for almost a week.
His job is not without its
share of danger. A lot of insects, get
attracted to the drink. An insect bite
or a sting can be excruciatingly painful or even poisonous at times. Manian says he has been stung by honey bees
and other insects. At times he would go
and take a tetatnus injection just so they do not turn septic and
poisonous.
If and when he spots honey
bees humming around, he spits out a large portion of betel nut juice from his
mouth, that distracts and ruffles the honey bee. A slightly ruffled honey bee thus keeps away
from him tills he ascends down.
It was a trade secret he learnt
from his father, says Manian. It may not
be something other Toddy tappers adapt, but it seems to work for him .
I ask him if there have
been serious accidents of Toddy tappers falling down from coconut trees, when
they sit on the branches to cut open the sap. He says there may have been a few
here and there although he has known only one who has met with a serious accident that has left him paralyzed waist down.
The government ensures that they are covered for accidents
and insured for life, which he says is a blessing as this kind of a benefit
comes only from the holding a government licence.
When he retires at 55,
which incidentally is the age of retirement by government standards, he would
sell his licence to any other interested
toddy tapper. When he retires he would be eligible for a government pension.
His, is the only unusual occupation where the benefits of a retirement fund and
medical insurance are available to the person undertaking the arduous
task. After all, it is what he produces, is what keeps the vote bank going for the politicians who run the government !!!.
Manian’s family consists
of his wife and two daughters, who who are now married. He has no sons and so he does not
foresee the occupation passing on to the next generation of his family. He is skeptical that even if he did have a
son he would want to be a Toddy tapper.
Younger men would rather pick up an occupation that is less strenuous in an office or something like
that. These days they would rather go to
the gulf and earn than work here as a Toddy Tapper, he says.
But the
most compelling reason for why this occupation is dying, is because no girl would like to marry a man who
does such a risky job and would be tanned ( a fair skin colour is far more valued amongst both men and women in india) and with scars all
over his body climbing trees. This he says with a smile on his face.
Also, Toddy drinking is addictive and is known to be a bane on family life. With so many turning into wife beaters girls would hesitate to marry someone who makes a living out of it.
Quite the contrary toddy tappers themselves seldom turn out to be such obsessive drunkards he clarifies.
'It is an occupation that requires us to be mentally and physically agile. Moreover we would rather sell the
Toddy and make money out of it than drink the produce, would we not', he asks and lets out
a hearty laugh.
After a while, he asks me if I would like
to taste the drink.
It is fresh, he reassures me as though I had doubted it. I have obviously been trailing him throughout while he was tapping it from the tree.
It is fresh, he reassures me as though I had doubted it. I have obviously been trailing him throughout while he was tapping it from the tree.
Before I could decline his offer, I am offered a glass of the drink from his container.
‘Kallu (Toddy) is also offered to Gods,’ he adds and laughs at my perplexed look.
A local folk art form called Theyyam is usually performed by trained men as an offering to the Gods. The performing artists would fast for the entire day of the performance and consume only Kallu until their performance is over, Manian explains.
I thank him for his time
and the glass of Toddy which I am still reluctantly holding, asking him if he would be ok if I publish
his pictures and video over my blog. ( I
avoid the word Blog and say internet, since I suspect he may not really know
what a blog would be) . He says he would be delighted at the thought that someone as insignificant as him was
getting featured on the internet.
It is almost mid-day and
the afternoon sun is scorching. The Toddy tapped in the early morning is sweet
and has medicinal effects. But as the
day wears on , the sun kissed sap ferments over and acquires a sour taste. I take a sip and realize that it has indeed
fermented over.
Do not worry, have it , it
won’t harm you, he says and asks if he could take leave.
Too much toddy is not good
for health. But that much once in a
while would do, he says cheerfully as he takes leave.
It is just another day in
the life of Manian - the Toddy Tapper. He would come back in the evening after he
finishes collecting the toddy from the other 8 trees that are spread across a
vast area in that neighbourhood.
Click here to watch a one minute snap shot of a day in the life of a Toddy Tapper
Click here to watch a one minute snap shot of a day in the life of a Toddy Tapper
Wow, that is an interesting thing to see once but I can agree that it would be a hard profession to go into these days! Fascinating!!!
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Wow. Great post.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the introduction :-)
ReplyDeleteThe life of Toddy Tapper is fraught with danger but it's good to read about it. You've narrated it so well describing the entire process. A super duper post, Jayanti:)
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Fascinating indeed. Whilse not really knowing what he was doing, I had the privelege of seeing an elderly man climb a coconut palm while on holiday in Tunisia. Some years earlier, in eastern Malaysia, we were spending a day with a family in a village, when their oldest male member climbed the coconut palm while the rest of us were inside, talking. When he came down, we were offered a glass each of coconut water. Notthe same stuff as Toddy, but thanks for bringing back the memory.
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