Aboard
the Houseboat
The week of Christmas and New Year’s Eve is
peak season time in tourist destinations of Kerala. It is when the
tourists from the world over arrive to take in the warm, humid weather and to
relax in the backwaters of Kerala. Set amongst lush greenery the beaches
and backwaters is and ideal getaway from the chilly winds and the cold, dark
grey weather in most parts of the western world. The sun is bright, warm
but not harsh. The scenery around is pleasant with abundance of soothing greenery. But most importantly the pampered
hospitality is flattering and great value for money to say the least.
Spending a day aboard a Houseboat is one of
must-do things in any tourists to-do list when visiting Kerala.
Alleppey’s scenic backwaters is one of the
less commercial, but highly sought after tourist hotspots. More than a
hundred houseboats are moored at the harbor in the backwaters and are getting
ready for the tourist inflow over the weekend preceding Christmas.
I am introduced to Saju who owns a couple of
houseboats. As a boy he grew up in the neighbourhood around these backwaters,
doing small errands at the harbor. As Kerala’s tourism inflow picked up, young boys like Saju tried
to pick up the business acumen required to cater to the tourists.
Not having used to the world-wide standards of the hospitality industry, the service was rustic and they were
oblivious to the varying tastes, hygiene standards and customs of the tourists
from other parts of the country and the world. This is when the big Hotel
chains decided to set shop amidst the backwaters and started buying out land
and dilapidated ,but exotic and beautiful, traditional houses from the locals
to build the five star hotel properties.
Saju had set up a small shop that supplied
diesel to the houseboats moored in the backwaters. He then meddled around with
supplying fish and Toddy – the potent local brew to the tourists who spent the
day in the houseboats. With the regulations of the houseboat business, the
houseboats required a license plate from the local RTO (Road transport
office).
Saju invested his money and built a houseboat
for himself. As the demand grew he invested in a few more houseboats and
began to employ other people to run them . In the initial days most of his
enquiries came from the nearby five star hotel for a day aboard the houseboat
for their guests. Then as competition increased his monopoly with the
hotel chain ended and he began seeking customers from other sources.
In this day and age while other houseboat
owners have to taken to charms of Google and the www, Saju still goes by the
traditional word of mouth and fixes up his deals with the chain of middlemen
for a commission. He has a steady stream of customers from his network handled
through whatsapp.
With the expansion of business come labour
issues. Strong labour unions formed with the backing of political parties
including the communist party over the years has ensured fair wages and decent
working conditions for the locals employed in the tourism industry.
However with huge demand during the tourist season the supply of local labour
falls short.
It is not very unusual to see migrants ,some
legal and many illegal, from other parts of the country and the adjacent ones
working behind the scenes in the unorganized sector in many parts of Kerala.
Bharat Das is the chef-at-residence
aboard Saju’s houseboat. He comes from a place about 1000 miles away. driven by
poverty and floods he had to migrate as a young boy to find work in big cities
and towns. Bharat Das worked for some time in a street side hotel where he
assisted the cook in the kitchen. Over there he put in long hours behind
the scenes but learnth the basic tricks of his trade and the secret recipes that
cater to popular taste. He learnt that recipe can vary depending upon
where the people come from and their unique tastes. He learnt that
Chinese food tasted different for the truck drivers, the urban middle class and
the foreigners. What real Chinese food would taste like, he does
not really know.
He was quick to pick up the nuances of recipes
and tastes when he apprenticed at the road side hotel before he drifted along
to a series of other places higher in the value chain as he honed his culinary
skills.
Das learnt his tricks of the trade from many
different places. His formal break from the rustic road side cuisine came when
he moved on to work for a contractor at the mess of a military training
institute. At the institute he learnt
finesse and the art of presentation while serving food. His back door training
at a three star hotel as the Chef’s errand boy taught him the nuances of
international taste. He has no formal education to speak of and no
degrees to his credit.
When he drifted along to the southern state of
Kerala, he was by then a skilled and much sought after chef in the kitchens of
the houseboat.
On any given day he would study his customer’s
background before they arrived. They would have given the fixed order and
chosen their menu during their reservation and before setting foot on the
houseboat, because supplies in the houseboat that has once sailed the shore
cannot be altered. And yet Das would keep a surprise in store for them in
the form of an evening snack or a surprise recipe that came with the
lunch.
If this was going to be an upper middle class
family get-together in the houseboat, Das would know what recipe choices would
prove exotic and would help his clients drool in the pampered gastronomic
experience that they would make them come backfor more.
If it was one of those numerous corporate
offsite or a get together of executives, which more often than not would be
followed by an evening of booze and wild dance parties, his choices in the menu
would be a little more cosmopolitan catering to the lowest common denominator
of all the tastes from all over the the world.
When the clientele were a backpacking European gang he
would know just how much spice to reduce or just how sweet the chocolate
soufflé should be and how crisp the toasts and cookies should be that would be
served with the evening tea.
When he dishes out the perfect fish and chips
for the comfort food starved Brit aboard the houseboat, he knows that the tips
at the end of the day would be generous to say the least. .
His sheer sense of instinctive hospitality
finds expression in his recipes and that is what makes him a sought after
‘Chef’. Saju his employer is proud of his employee
especially when he gets his customers who come to him by word
of mouth. More often than not they have
been recommended Saju’s houseboat just for the excellence of Das’s
recipes and the exquisite culinary experience that Das offered their friends when
they came along to spend a relaxing time aboard the houseboat.
Das, over the years has learnt to speak in
Malayalam, the local language, but also a dozen other languages that include
English and a little French.
He goes home to meet his folks when the south
west monsoon fury hits the coast of Kerala every June and the Tourist inflow
dries up for the next couple of months. This is also the time that the
houseboats are anchored ashore.
Das uses his time well to hit homewards where
his family is dependent on his income that he has saved up from the generous
tips offered by the tourists to make ends meet more than the basic minimum
wages that Saju pays him for his work in his Houseboat.
Well written. A few commas and a better selection of phrases would have made it great.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your candid feedback. Went back and did some spell check and formatting.
ReplyDeleteHopw it reads better now.
Sounds like an interesting job, and very different from cooking in a fully equipped kitchen I would imagine
ReplyDeleteDebbie
Very interesting. I have always wanted to get to a house boat and Kerala is closer than Kashmir. But I've also heard they are very expensive. Thanks for sharing the many details.
ReplyDeleteWhat a FUN topic you chose for the A to Z challenge! Now I need to go back and read all the rest. The electric elephant and coir rope maker look especially interesting.
ReplyDeleteGood luck with your A to Z!
Trisha Faye www.trishafaye.wordpress.com
This was very interesting Jayanti! I have stayed in a houseboat in Kashmir and the experience there too was one of its kind. Lucky for Saju he found such a great cook like Das.
ReplyDelete@KalaRavi16 from
Relax-N-Rave